Black Radish, a chic New York-style bistro, is sprouting in North Park.
Owners and spouses John Welsh and chef Itze Behar, who had ed forces to open Coronado Tavern, decided to go for a more intimate and up-scale dining experience with Black Radish.
Born and raised in Tijuana, Behar said Black Radish was inspired by New York neighborhood restaurants that don’t feel stuffy and have excellent service. She brings her Mexican and Persian background to the kitchen at Black Radish, where the menu evolves with the seasons. French cooking techniques also play a role.
While Behar doesn’t like to repeat items on the four-course menu, a few standouts over the past year have included carrot soup and pork belly with gooseberry pork jus, pickled radish and fermented fresno chili. Fresh, local ingredients from Chino Farms or the farmer’s market are used for each dish.
The wine menu is built around each course, focusing on sustainable, organic wines selected by Michelin’s 2021 Sommelier of the Year, Charlotte Randolph. Food can be ordered a la carte or prix fixe, with a $49 wine pairing.
The intimate space can seat up to 45 guests inside and outside and was designed by Welsh, who’s also an architect. A red brick wall, an open kitchen and a statement light fixture that looks like roots dangling from the ceiling all add charm to the eatery.
“We feel so lucky to be a part of the North Park community,” said Welsh. “…We get a lot of local people and we have a lot of regulars that are so incredibly generous and gracious and sweet that bring people in.”
Black Radish is at 2591 University Avenue and is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday.
Call (619) 269-1980 or visit blckrdsh.com to make a reservation. Follow @blckrdsh on Instragram.
Roxana Becerril is a freelance writer.
